At a glance
Linen, hemp, virgin wool and deerskin appear again and again with us. What a Gwand is capable of is decided long before the cutting: in the fabric, and in what the making draws out of it.
Where from
The flax for our linen grows in France and needs nothing there but rainwater. It is woven at Seidra in the Gailtal of Upper Carinthia, one of the last linen weaving mills in Austria, where the Jägerleinen is also made to particularly strict specifications. Hemp is a native plant whose fibre we rediscovered decades ago. The virgin wool comes from the sheep, the Tuchloden has its bedrock in the Dachstein region, and the deerskin comes from the native red deer.
What
Linen draws moisture away from the body and cools, hemp stays light and keeps its shape, and both endure more than one would credit them with. Virgin wool takes another path: it is fulled, and in the process two different fabrics come from it. Knitted cloth becomes Walk, soft and yielding; woven cloth becomes the denser Tuchloden. Chamois-tanned deerskin needs no fulling bath and is velvety to the touch after tanning.
What for
Linen and hemp carry the summer, as a Pfoad, the traditional shirt, as a blouse, as a dress and as the Hanferne, which holds its own beside the Lederne on hot days. Chamois-tanned deerskin lasts the whole year through, on the Lederhose just as on the collar of a jacket. Walk cloth and Tuchloden take over as soon as it turns cool.
Why
Body odours scarcely settle in linen, and the fibre is strong enough for boil washing, where the dyeing allows it. Hemp is ready to harvest after one hundred and twenty days and overgrows the weeds, so that herbicides are not needed. Chamois-tanned deerskin manages without chrome and grows softer as it is worn, until it follows the movement.
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